Carpentry

Finish Carpentry in Ontario

Finish carpentry is the last five percent of a job that people actually see. Tight mitres, consistent reveals around doors, trim that follows a wavy wall without showing it. It's slower, fussier work than framing, and it's where a good carpenter earns their keep.

Ontario houses keep finish carpenters honest. A 1920s home has plaster walls that aren't flat and door openings that aren't square, so everything gets scribed and fitted rather than just cut to length. A 2010s subdivision house is straighter but full of MDF that needs different handling than solid wood β€” different fasteners, different glue, different expectations around moisture.

We take on single-task jobs and full-house work alike: one damaged windowsill, a flight of stair nosings, or trimming out an entire renovation. Describe the work, add photos of the existing woodwork so the new matches the old, and you'll get a free quote.

What this covers

  • Door hanging and fitting
  • Custom shelving and built-in fitting
  • Window sills, aprons and returns
  • Stair treads, nosings and railings
  • Mantels and feature woodwork
  • Scribing and fitting against uneven walls
  • Repairs to existing trim and woodwork
  • Matching new profiles to old ones
  • Caulk-and-fill to a paint-ready finish
  • Hardware fitting: catches, hinges, latches

What affects the price

  • Material: MDF is cheaper to buy and work; solid wood costs more and demands more skill
  • Matching an existing profile β€” stock profiles are quick, custom-milled matches are not
  • How square and flat the house is; older homes mean more scribing time
  • Paint-grade versus stain-grade: stain-grade allows no filler tricks, so joinery has to be perfect
  • Number of rooms or openings being trimmed
  • Demolition and disposal of existing trim
  • Finishing: some jobs are quoted to primed, others to fully painted

Every home is different, so we don’t publish flat prices β€” the quote is free and based on your actual job.

Common questions

MDF or solid wood β€” which should I use?
For painted trim in dry rooms, MDF is the practical choice: it's stable, takes paint beautifully and costs less. For stained finishes, anything that gets knocked around, or damp areas like bathrooms and basements, solid wood or moisture-resistant material earns its price. Plenty of houses use both β€” MDF upstairs, wood where it matters.
Can you match the trim in my older home?
Usually, one way or another. A lot of "old" profiles are still milled today or can be built up from stock pieces. For true heritage profiles, a lumberyard can custom-mill a match from a sample β€” costlier, but the right answer in a century home where mismatched trim sticks out.
My walls aren't straight. Will the trim show every wave?
Not if it's scribed properly. Scribing means shaping the back of the trim to follow the wall so the visible edge stays clean. It's the difference between trim that looks fitted and trim with a caulk canyon behind it. Older homes almost always need it.
Do you handle small repairs, or only full installs?
Small repairs are a big part of the work β€” a chewed-up door casing, a cracked windowsill, one stair nosing that's come loose. Send a photo, get a quote. It doesn't need to be a whole-house job to be worth doing right.
Is painting included?
That's up to you. Some carpenters finish to primed and caulked, ready for your painter; a full-service quote can include final painting. Say which you want on the quote form so the numbers compare fairly.

Ready to sort out your finish carpentry?

Tell us what your home needs β€” a small fix or a full project β€” and get a free quote.