Tile & Stone

Tile Installation in Ontario

Tile is unforgiving. Wood floors flex and paint forgives, but tile telegraphs every shortcut underneath it: a wavy substrate shows as lippage between tiles, a skipped uncoupling layer shows up later as cracks tracking across the floor, and a shower without real waterproofing behind the tile shows up as the worst kind of surprise inside the wall. The tile you pick is the visible ten percent; the prep is the job.

That's why our quotes talk about what goes under and behind: levelling compound where the floor dips, cement board or foam board in wet areas β€” never plain drywall behind a shower β€” waterproofing membranes on shower walls and floors, and movement joints where the tile field meets walls and tubs. Large-format tiles, the big planks and slabs everyone loves now, are even less tolerant; they need a flatter substrate and more careful mortar coverage than the small tiles of thirty years ago.

We tile floors, walls, showers, tub surrounds, entryways, laundry rooms and fireplace surrounds, in ceramic, porcelain and natural stone. Kitchen backsplashes have their own page, and if it's just tired grout rather than tired tile, regrouting is a separate, cheaper service. Send the room dimensions and your tile choice if you've made one β€” free quote follows.

What this covers

  • Floor tiling in ceramic, porcelain and stone
  • Wall and shower tiling
  • Tub surrounds
  • Substrate prep: levelling, cement board, uncoupling membranes
  • Shower waterproofing membranes
  • Large-format and plank tile installation
  • Heated floor cable coordination beneath tile
  • Grouting, movement joints and silicone at changes of plane
  • Old tile removal and disposal
  • Sealing on natural stone and where grout benefits from it

What affects the price

  • Area being tiled, and how much cutting the layout forces β€” small rooms with many edges cut slower than open floors
  • Substrate condition; levelling and board replacement are the common hidden costs
  • Tile size and material: large-format and natural stone demand more prep and slower setting
  • Wet-area waterproofing scope for showers and tub surrounds
  • Pattern complexity β€” herringbone and diagonals add cutting time over straight lay
  • Removing existing tile, which can be stubborn on old mortar beds
  • Niches, benches and edge trim details in showers

Every home is different, so we don’t publish flat prices β€” the quote is free and based on your actual job.

Common questions

What actually goes behind shower tile? I've heard drywall is wrong.
Correct β€” plain drywall has no place behind a shower. Tile and grout are not waterproof on their own; the system relies on what's behind them. The right build is cement board or foam backer plus a waterproofing membrane, either sheet-applied or liquid. When you see quotes that differ a lot on a shower, the waterproofing scope is often the difference.
Can you tile over my existing tile floor?
Sometimes, and it skips a messy demolition β€” but only when the existing tile is solidly bonded, the added height doesn't trap doors and transitions, and the floor can take the extra load. Hollow-sounding or cracked existing tile disqualifies it. Honest answer either way after a look; over-tiling a bad base just doubles the future removal bill.
Why did my last tile floor crack along a line?
A line of cracks across multiple tiles almost always mirrors movement underneath β€” a seam in the subfloor, a joist line, or concrete that cracked and carried the tile with it. Uncoupling membranes exist for exactly this: they separate tile from substrate movement. That's why we bring it up at quote time rather than after.
Are big tiles harder to install? The 24x48 ones are everywhere now.
Harder, genuinely. Large-format tile needs a flatter floor than small tile β€” dips a small tile would ride over become rocking points β€” plus back-buttering for mortar coverage and often a levelling-clip system to control lippage. Beautiful result, less forgiving process, and quotes reflect the extra prep.
Does natural stone need anything special?
Stone is porous, so it gets sealed after installation and periodically after that, and some stones β€” marble especially β€” etch with acidic cleaners. Certain stones also need white mortar to avoid bleed-through. If easy maintenance is the priority, porcelain that mimics stone is a fair suggestion, and plenty of clients thank us for it later.

Ready to sort out your tile installation?

Tell us what your home needs β€” a small fix or a full project β€” and get a free quote.